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Welcome to Mother on Høkerboderne. Mother is one of the latest additions to the Kød Byen scene. It’s an utterly Italian restaurant without all the nonsense. Mother’s menu aims to bring out really good simple soul food, the kind we never tire of. We combine the best ingredients with seasonal and directly sourced artisan products from Italy. At the centre of our attention is our pride, our wood fired oven. She provides us with our daily bread, sourdough pizza, roasted fish-meat-vegetables, and warmth.
People say that Italian food is all about an ingenious use of really good ingredients, and we try to keep to that sentiment. David is Roman and is passionate about what is correct and what is not, and we all bow to him on this. Authentic Carbonara, with guanciale, not bacon. And who mentioned cream?! The right temperature for Porchetta? Lukewarm apparently. White lasagne?? He puts us straight.
Every morning begins by firing up the oven with fresh wood to roast vegetables for the antipasti and to cook our daily specials. A couple of rustic all-in-one dishes that are made, devoured, and gone. Our idea is to stick to restaurant basics. Simple, direct, homey food, cooked with love.
Later in the day we intensify the heat for cooking Mother’s sourdough pizzas. The sourdough is a creature, something wild. You don’t own it you think you might but actually it owns you.Think about having a leopard as a pet. And that is our Mother. The dough is based on a leaven of natural yeasts which gives it several benefits; a long proving time develops complexity of flavour, the gluten in the wheat is broken down to make a much more digestible and appetising pizza, and the crust itself has a characteristic sourdough tang and a chewy quality that is very moreish. The style is from Naples- arguably the benchmark for all pizza – a thin base with a puffed-up pillowy edge, blistered from the intense heat of the wood-fired oven. The centre remains a little soft. The Neapolitan way of eating a slice into fold or roll it.
